
In the whole Yucatan Peninsula, one of the big players is Cancun, which is totally new-- 45 years ago it didn’t even exist. Fonatur, a government agency, asked where they could bring tourists in and get what they and the tourists wanted. Cancun is the closest thing to Hilton Head Island, in South Carolina, in that it is a planned community. It has a hotel zone, underground utilities, a water purification plant, a place where workers in the hotel live, a commercial center, etc. When we first lived in Cancun, about 30 years ago, there were only about 13,000 people there and now it’s about to hit 1 million in population.
Merida is the old town, which was founded in the 1500s. It is a big commercial center with a million people. There is manufacturing there, with lots of commercial retail. Merida is the business commercial hub of Yucatan. Since we are half way between Cancun and Merida, I have my dentist in Merida, and we go to a major hospital there, too. We go there for some concerts because there are more social events being held in Merida.
Going north, about 90 kilometers, there are several beach resorts that are much less well-known but a number of expats are in them because it is very inexpensive. One resort is called Holbox, which is an island that you get to via a ferry. Other resorts are Rio Lagartos and San Felipe, which were originally fishing villages that have now taken on an expat and resort flavor to them but they are very low key and extremely inexpensive as far as real estate.
If you go north of Merida, there are a number of beach resorts. Historically, the most well-known is Progreso. The whole area both east and west of Progreso has a bunch of fishing villages and beach communities. Developers are buying chunks of beachfront in this area and putting up some fairly lower cost condominiums with about 10 to 12 units.
If you go south of Valladolid, basically all the communities other the ones I have mentioned above are small. In between here in Yucatan and Cancun or between here and Merida, there are a number of pueblitos, or villages where you might find one with about 10,000 people but it’s fairly rustic and there are no major chain stores. In Valladolid, we have three national grocery stores – Super K, Sorianos, and Aurora Bodega, which is a Walmart subsidiary. You won’t find those in any of the smaller communities.
Here in Yucatan, most of the people, and even our current mayor, don’t speak English. Our next mayor who will take office in January is a former teacher, and does speak English. She was here for the Lion’s Club installation dinner. I had the chance to talk with her. The majority of people in the city government do not speak English. The majority of police officers don’t. There are some traffic police who are riding bicycles in town that are much more assessable.
Valladolid gets over a million tourists per year. Their average stay is 30 to 45 minutes because they are on tour buses that are coming or going to Cancun or some other place. Some of them come in the morning but a lot of them come at 6 PM. I counted 17 big tourist buses, not including the vans all parked around the town square with all these people going to the main church on the square, going up to the city hall to see the murals, walking around the central park in the main square. They buy themselves some beer, ice cream, or a bottle of soda pop before they get themselves back on their tour buses to go back to the hotel. It’s interesting.
The good thing here in Valladolid is that we have had a bit of a hotel business boom. There are now small boutique hotels with 10 to 20 rooms and some of them are quite nice. That is happening now because of the Pueblo Majico. Most people put this place now on their bucket list. Most of the tour guides say, if you want to have a colonial experience and you don’t want to drive hours all the way to Merida, go to Valladolid. It is the closest town to Cancun on a secure toll road. After you leave Cancun, Valladolid is literally the first exit on the four lane highway. More people are coming here to Valladolid on their own as well. We have almost 1,000 hotel rooms now. We have everything from backpacking places where two to three students can stay up to hotels that are about 100 rooms each. We also have a couple of boutique hotels or B&Bs, a lot of which are owned by expats.